| Clean up Fashion 2008 | | Print | |
Page 5 of 5 Understanding what companies sayThe profiles are based on information supplied by the companies themselves. Companies were given the option of submitting before the deadline to give us time to ask clarification questions, and a few did this. As in previous years, we have given companies a grade to help you follow how far along the route towards implementing a living wage they are. These grades are intended to make it easier to compare responses and see how responses they match up to our criteria. They are not intended as a ranking. Because so many companies have begun pilot projects on wages this year, and because all pilot projects are not as good as each other, we have split the old Grade 3 into three separate grades, to help distinguish between them. Grade 0: Does not accept the principle of a living wage Grade 1: Accepts the principle of a living wage, but applies legal minimum/industry benchmark. Grade 2: Acknowledges that minimum and industry benchmark wages are not sufficient standards, but no real efforts to apply living wage. Grade 2.5: Can offer concrete examples of steps to increase wages in the supplier base, but pilot projects are limited in scope and have significant omissions. Grade 4: Sophisticated and serious engagement with a living wage, beginning to move beyond pilot programmes, but still not systematic across supplier base. Grade 5: Sustained implementation of an effective living wage policy across entire supply base. Health warning!We believe that how a company performs on living wages is a good indicator of its current commitment to workers' rights more generally. That's why we've homed in just this one issue. But it does mean you should bear in mind several things when reading the profiles. Things changeThese profiles are accurate as of September 2008. This presents one particular problem regarding companies that are taking part in the ETI living wages project. This project is likely to include all of the elements of our definition of a satisfactory project, but has yet to get the go-ahead from all its members to begin work on the ground. This means that companies that are putting all their eggs in the ETI basket are likely to score worse than those that have decided to go it alone, despite the fact that these latter companies' projects do not meet all our criteria. This is perhaps unfortunate, but at the same time it is important that companies do not settle for burying complicated issues like living wages in ETI pilot projects: project members must be held collectively responsible for the project's slow progress, and individually responsible for being transparent about their activities. There are other issues to considerIn previous years, this report concentrated not just on living wages, but also on two other thorny issues:
To be fair to companies that made significant progress in response to our criticisms in previous years, we have given a space in the profiles to “other significant information” to include any updates on these areas. But you will find much more information by looking at companies' submissions, their profiles in previous years, and their own websites. And in addition to this, there are other things that make up the picture of how 'ethical' a company is, such as Fairtrade cotton, environmental sustainability, and animal rights. Our methodology is not perfectOur profiles are as much a measure of how much effort individuals within the companies put into their responses to us as they are of company policy and practice. This is not a bad thing: transparency and engagement with stakeholders are important aspects of the steps companies should be taking. Each profile is based on a limited (but, we think, sufficient) amount of opportunities for dialogue with the company over the last three years, rather than an exhaustive discussion. Further correspondence might have opened up new issues and answered some questions, but a cut-off point had to be drawn somewhere. |
|||||||
| Last Updated ( Sunday, 28 September 2008 ) | |||||||