THE STATE OF PAY

No brand or retailer is paying its workers a living wage, or has yet put together a systematic programme of work that is likely to raise wages to acceptable levels in the near future. Some brands are racing ahead while others are lagging behind. A number of brands have started working on projects that fulfil many, if not all of our recommendations while others have done nothing beyond vague paper commitments. Here is how this years high street breaks down.

NOTHING TO SAY

Alexon, BHS, Ethel Austin, House of Fraser, Peacock Group

These companies didn't reply, and made no information on available on their websites.

NO WORK TO SPEAK OF

Asda/George, Clarks, Debenhams, French Connection, John Lewis, Laura Ashley, Levi Strauss & Co, Matalan, River Island, Sainsbury's

While some of these retailers accept the idea that workers should earn living wages and that they currently do not, none of them had concrete plans to do much about this. In most cases this reflects a more general failure to engage with more complex ethical trade issues. Levi Strauss is the exception, having made a policy decision not to support work on living wages. Asda appears to have done nothing at all to build on last year's work and, based on its 2009 submission has no plans to do so in the future.

ONE CHEER: Mention of work on living wages, but unconvincing so far

Arcadia Group, Aurora Fashions, Burberry, Tesco

These retailers have done some work and have plans for pilot projects, but do not give any substantial details. Both Burberry and Tesco have plans to start productivity trials but Tesco seem to be waiting, again, for the ETI living wage project to restart, and Burberry's project, without the partnership of learning from other brands, lacks collaboration. Arcadia is working on 2 wage projects with Next, but it offers nothing like the same depth of engagement, and Aurora Fashions have committed to a living wage project in Turkey, but gave no details. All of these brands have started work on certain projects, but none appear to have a coherent strategy for ensuring living wages.

TWO CHEERS: Work to increase wages, but not enough yet

Gap, M&S, Monsoon Accessorize, New Look, Next , Primark

Last year only Monsoon and Gap publicly committed to a project that contains all four of our pillars of a good project. This year we can add Next and New Look to that list, although all projects are still very much at the pilot stage. All of these companies put too much of a focus on productivity improvements, although each goes beyond that to meet some of our criteria for a good project. M&S continues to lose credibility through its lack of engagement with issues of freedom of association. In fact none of the companies are convincing enough on this point. All of the companies in this group seem to have a more systematic approach to wage improvements. Gap, Next, Primark and Monsoon in particular have made some effort to include home workers. Next, Gap and New Look all mentioned the need to address some of their purchasing practice. Only Monsoon made an, albeit qualified, mention of the need to pay a fair price.