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This report isn't an 'ethical shopping guide'. The way to help workers is not to boycott one company in favour of another, it's to shift from being a passive consumer to an active one. Each time you buy clothes, get in touch with the company you bought them from, ask them what they are doing about the recommendations in this report. Together, we can - and we will - clean up fashion. |
| Debenhams | | Print | |
Page 2 of 3 Detail on Workers RightsWagesDebenhams told us that, “[p]ayment of living wage is proving to be very complex.” In contrast to its 2006 response, it agreed that national minimum wages are often too low, but in our meeting told us that it does not have a strategic plan to tackle the living wage issue. It said it was only listening to the discussion on wages taking place within the ETI, but not participating actively. “An added complication for Debenhams,” it said, “is that we are typically one of the smaller retailers placing orders in a factory at any one time.” This means it is not so easy for it to influence working conditions or wages independently, it said. Freedom of associationIn 2006, Debenhams told us that it was “in detailed discussions with a third party provider with the intention of holding workshops relating to freedom of association,” working with Trade Unions “directly in countries such as Cambodia,” and “members of the ETI Occupational Health and Safety project which will be empowering workers to represent themselves on this important subject in China.” It didn’t give us more information on any of these areas when we asked for it.
We are not sure to what extent these projects will actually focus on freedom of association. Debenhams made no mention of worker training by local labour rights groups. Monitoring and verificationDebenhams told us that, Since our last response Debenhams has joined SEDEX and we are actively encouraging our suppliers/factories to upload their audits on to the system. We have completed the social mapping exercise and have factory evaluations for all live factories. Debenhams has taken a strong stance within the ETI and beyond on the limitations of social audits and we are working jointly with other retailers to change this model together.We asked what was meant by this ‘strong stance’, and how Debenhams was working to change the model. Debenhams did not outline any concrete steps. Our conclusionOverall a disappointing response from such a major retailer and longstanding ETI member. We don’t have the impression of any kind of coherent plan to improve labour rights in its supply chain: on wages and verification it acknowledges the need for progress but seems to be sitting back and waiting; on freedom of association it seems to be grasping at straws. We hope that the expansion of its CSR team will fix this. |
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| Last Updated ( Thursday, 13 September 2007 ) | |||||